2014 HPCI Techincal Seminars Abstracts



Wednesday, 3 December 2014, 10:00–10:20
Title: Scientific Presentation:
Evaluation of the In Vivo Moisturizing Efficacy
of Sericin Plus Squalene Components by Corneometry

Speaker: Dr. Mohammad Baghaei, Pharm.D.
Company: Member of SCS UK & President of MECSCC
(Middle Eastern Countries Society of Cosmetic Chemists), Iran
Abstract not available.

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Wednesday, 3 December 2014, 10:20–10:40
Title: Amino Acid-based Surfactants for "Sulphate-Free"
and Super Mild Personal Care Applications

Speaker: Dr. Jason Zan
Company: Sino Lion (USA), Ltd.
Abstract not available.

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Wednesday, 3 December 2014, 10:40–11:00
Title: TETRAHYDROCURCUMINOIDS CG
Bioactive Antioxidant Compounds From Curcuminoids

Speaker: Eliz Turkileri
Company: Sabinsa Corporation
Abstract not available.

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Wednesday, 3 December 2014, 11:20–11:40
Title: Innovative PEG-free polyglyceryl esters as eco-friendly,
high performance emulsifiers for modern skin care products

Speaker: Dr. Achim Friedrich (Technical Manager Emulsion Systems)
Company: Evonik
One of the megatrends in the field of personal care and cosmetics is sustainability. New raw materials should be in line with this development in order to serve today’s requirements and future needs. Simultaneously, the protection against UV rays is a major topic as well in the cosmetic market.
Hence, the ability to emulsify and stabilize UV filters is another key property for raw materials, especially for emulsifiers.
To address these trends, an overview of modern polyglyceryl based emulsifiers will be presented.
To expand further the potential formulation options, a novel PEG-free polyglyceryl based emulsifier was developed to cover the need of sustainability while providing the emulsification stability of sun care formulations containing a high load of water soluble UV filters or other challenging ingredients. This new PEG-free emulsifier is particularly suitable for low-viscous emulsions like O/W sun care lotions and sprays. Besides sun care, other low-viscous emulsion systems with challenging ingredients like insect repellents, high electrolyte content or low pH values are possible to formulate. As this emulsifier is at the same time also certified by NATRUE, ECOCERT and COSMOS it is predestinated for natural formulations. Moreover, its applicability for eco- and cost-optimized production of emulsions can be used to improve the sustainability profile of cosmetic products.

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Wednesday, 3 December 2014, 11:40–12:00
Title: Kopnolia – Multipurpose Skin Care Ingredient
Speaker: Dr. Rakesh Ratnam
Company: Kumar
Abstract not available.

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Wednesday, 3 December 2014, 12:00–12:20
Title: Discover A New Sensory Dimension – GlucoTain®
Speaker: Sanem Yurt (Speaker), Dr. Michael Waidelich
Company: Clariant
Glucamides, or N-Methyl-N-Acyl Glucamines, are a new group of highly renewable, nonionic sugar surfactants. They are readily biodegradable and have an excellent ecological profile, belonging to the few surfactant classes having no aquatox labelling according to GHS (globally harmonized system). Due to their sugar base, they are also less dependent on tropical biomass as a raw material compared to other classical surfactants.
The mildness of hair and body cleansing products is a key topic in formulating personal care products due to the contact of surfactants with skin. In this respect, Glucamides are an excellent alternative to currently applied surfactants, as they have proven to be very skin friendly. Results of Zein-, RBC (Red blood cell) and Lipid dissolution tests show that they are not only extremely mild to skin proteins but also to the skin lipid barrier, which is a unique combination.
Besides being mild, GlucoTain® products show excellent foaming properties. Results of in vivo foam testing are provided. Furthermore, they show interesting sensory effects, which, depending on the hydrophobic moiety of the molecule, can be modulated within a wide range from “squeaky” to refatting/conditioning.
Contrary to existing nonionics, GlucoTain® products are also economic concerning their formulation behavior: They provide excellent viscosity response with salt and therefore help to minimize formulation cost due to their thickening behavior.

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Wednesday, 3 December 2014, 12:20–12:40
Title: Photostable skin care formulas, for healthy and vibrant skin
Speaker: Baris Kan
Company: The Innovation Company
Abstract not available.

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Thursday, 4 December 2014, 10:00–10:20
Title: STEPAN-MILD® GCC:
A Green Versatile Ingredient for Personal Care

Speaker: Justine Boyer
Company: Stepan
STEPAN-MILD® GCC, Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate, is a 100% active, natural versatile ingredient providing multi-functionality.
Green, Viscosity, foam boosting, skin feel, conditioning: many benefits thanks to one single ingredient!
STEPAN-MILD® GCC is an environmental friendly ingredient, conformed to ECOCERT Cosmetic Standards. Its “NaTrue” compliance is in progress as a “nearly natural substance (Part 2C)” (corresponding active is listed in Annexe III).
STEPAN-MILD® GCC can also be used in SULFATE FREE systems to help increasing foam and viscosity. It is a green replacement to synthetic polymers, is EO/PO free, PEG free and is a good alternative to cocamide DEA.
STEPAN-MILD® GCC is a viscosity enhancer compatible with a variety of primary surfactant systems. It is comparable in thickening to traditional thickeners, with an advantage in foaming.
Using STEPAN-MILD® GCC allows reducing the salt level of your formulation and consequently reduces formulation irritancy. STEPAN-MILD® GCC will also provide good skin feel as it is considered as re fatting agent.
Moreover, STEPAN-MILD® GCC can be used in Hair Care products in order to enhance the conditioning effect of polyquaterniums or esterquats.
STEPAN-MILD® GCC offers the advantage of a cold mix incorporation in your formulations. It can be used in many Personal Care applications such as shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers or baby products.

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Thursday, 4 December 2014, 10:20–10:40
Title: Cutting Edge Actives for Bright and Even Skin, with the Biologically Inspired MandarinClear, CinderellaCare, and Kiwi Liquid B.
Speaker: Olivier Paquette
Company: Ichimaru Pharcos
Abstract not available.

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Thursday, 4 December 2014, 10:40–11:00
Title: GlucoPure Foam and GlucoPure DEG –
A New Generation of sugar surfactants for hand dishwashing liquid

Speaker: Dr. Florian Schinle
Company: Clariant Produkte (Deutschland) GmbH
Glucamides, or N-Methyl-N-Acyl Glucamines, are a new group of highly renewable, nonionic sugar surfactants. They are readily biodegradable and have an excellent ecological profile, belonging to the few surfactant classes having no aquatox labelling according to GHS (globally harmonized system). Due to their sugar base, they are also less dependent on tropical biomass as a raw material compared to other classical surfactants.
Depending on the hydrophobic moiety of the molecule, home care specific and application relevant performance parameters can be modulated. Glucamides with medium length chains exhibit excellent foaming performance and outstanding degreasing power. These properties are particularly beneficial when applied to hand dishwashing liquids.
Compared to conventional sugar based surfactants, Glucamides exhibit superior cleaning performance and excellent foam mileage in market relevant dishwashing liquid formulations. Glucamides are easy to formulate and, unlike other commonly used co-surfactants for dishwashing liquids, they can be used in highly concentrated formulations even in the absence of further additives or solvents. In addition to these benefits, the environmental friendly nature of these surfactants means they are suitable for European Ecolabels.
The mildness of dishwashing liquids is a very important aspect of the product due to the extended contact between the skin and the washing solution. In this respect, Glucamides are an excellent alternative currently applied surfactants as they have proven to be very skin friendly. Test results of Zein-, RBC (Red blood cell) and Lipid dissolution show that they are not only extremely mild to skin proteins but also to the skin lipid barrier, which is a unique combination.

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Thursday, 4 December 2014, 11:20–11:40
Title: A new solution for frizz control in leave-in conditioners
Speaker: Sılay Özgirgin
Company: Dow Corning Kimya, Istanbul, Turkey
Hair frizz under hot and humid conditions is a significant problem for women with curly, frizzy or kinky hair. Anhydrous serums have been used for many years to provide frizz control but they can leave hair with a greasy feel. To balance that drawback, water-based products are becoming more popular. However, they face the challenge to provide enough frizz control. With the increasing demand, formulators are looking for ingredients that provide better frizz control with a more natural look and feel.
In the attempt to design a better performing frizz control solution, we realized the importance of a test method which accurately quantifies hair frizziness. The use of the Dow Corning Frizz Index, a new and improved measurement, independent of hair shape and volume, was developed to provide quantification of frizz. Using this method, we created a new higher performing frizz control concentrate compared to the traditional silicone gum fluid blend. This concentrate enables formulators to create water-based leave-in products with enhanced frizz control performance, less oily feel and more hair alignment for today’s consumers.

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Thursday, 4 December 2014, 11:40–12:00
Title: Improving the Performance of Liquid Laundry Detergents
Speaker: Gerhard Merkle
Company: BASF SE
Abstract not available.

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Thursday, 4 December 2014, 12:00–12:20
Title: N-DurHance™ A-1000 conditioning polymer:
Breakthrough Technology for Repair and Conditioning in Hair Care

Speaker: David Popplewell
Company: Ashland
Most conditioning polymers employed in rinse-off systems lend a temporary benefit to hair strands. As more consumers utilize chemical treatments and heat styling tools to manage their hair, conditioning polymers that last only a day or two tend not to meet today’s consumer needs. The objective of N-DurHance A-1000 conditioning polymer is to repair damaged hair for extended periods, resulting in physiochemical properties normally found in virgin hair. Conditioning efficacy is maintained with N-DurHance A-1000 conditioning polymer, even after five wash cycles; whereas commercial conditioners lose their efficacy after one wash. The polymer is highly substantive to hair, with no measurable build-up or consumer perceivable negative attributes.

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Thursday, 4 December 2014, 12:20–12:40
Title: Globally Approved Paraben Replacement That Can Save You Money
Speaker: Aysel Calkap
Company: Troy
Abstract not available.




last update: 26 November 2014