2013 HPCI Techincal Seminars Abstracts



Wednesday, 18 September 2013, 13:10–13:30
Title: Naturally Looking Good
Speaker: Isabelle Minoggio
Company: Clariant
Living in a world of increasing visualization and youth, being and appearing healthy is of high importance. A healthy and vital skin and hair can be defined by their appearance:
• a uniform tone, a good radiance and a firm and supple texture, for the skin
• a moisturized scalp, a shiny effect and a smooth texture, for the hair

In order to maintain these characteristics, cosmetic ingredients have to act at several levels by respecting the nature of skin and hair.
CRM International, a new member of the Clariant group company proposes a wide range of natural ingredients to respond to the specific needs of the skin and hair which address targets: hydration, anti-ageing, protection, radical quenching, self esteem, ... They can be used for all skin and hair types and for all application: skin care, hair care, make up, foaming products.

Plantasens Abyssinian Oil
(INCI: Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil) is a natural seed oil produced from a plant native to the Mediterranean Area, appreciated for its unique skin feel. Thanks to its specific composition (C22:1 and omega 3, 6), it provides hydration and protects the cutaneous barrier by leaving a thin film on the skin.

Plantasens Squalane
(INCI: Squalane) is an ultra stable emollient obtained from Olive Squalene. It offering a silky touch without greasy residue and a good penetration into the skin. The Olive origin can be proven by 13/12C isotope ratio. This sensitive test can trace shark liver or GMO origin Squalene and Squalane even in finished cosmetic formulations.

Plantasens Crambisol (INCI: Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil (and) Phytosterols) is a multifunctional agent with anti-oxidation power and a unique skin feel when introduced in formulation. In rinse-off formulations, it improves the texture and the beauty of hair (brightness, elasticity, resistance, hydration). Also suitable in make up, it improves the pigment dispersion for an intensive color and a long lasting effect.

Plantasens Olive Active HP (INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables) is a powerful anti-ageing active derived from Olive. Efficient at very low percentage, Plantasens Olive Active HP fights the 2 main reactions in the skin leading to skin ageing process – lipid peroxidation and glycation.These actives help you to look naturally good.

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Wednesday, 18 September 2013, 13:30–13:50
Title: Luviset One – The One You Need
Speaker: Sevgi Senel-Guler
Company: BASF
Luviset® One – our innovative new hair styling polymer (INCI: Acrylates/Methacrylamide Copolymer). Luviset® One offers a highly effective solution for the formulation of hair styling products such as gels, creams, waxes and exciting new textures. Luviset® One is a self thickening styling polymer which offers excellent setting performance whilst forming a smooth clear gel. Luviset® One can be used alone as the sole polymer for thickening and styling in hair gel formulations. It offers excellent curl retention for up to 48 hours at 90% relative humidity.

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Wednesday, 18 September 2013, 13:50–14:10
Title: High Performance Solution for Extremely Dry Skin
Speaker: Nadine Klein – Chemical Engineer, Sales Manager Detergents and Cosmetics EMEA
Company: Corbion
Corbion Purac is a leading company in lactic acid based chemistry and the worldwide market leader in lactic acid, lactic acid derivatives and lactides. Corbion Purac has 80 years experience in the development, manufacturing and marketing of these products in a broad range of industries, including cosmetics.
PURASAL® NH/COS is a concentrated solution of the ammonium salt of natural L-lactic acid, produced by fermentation from carbohydrates, especially suited for formulations for very dry skin.
It reduces hyperkeratinization and it restores the stratum corneum to its normal healthy condition. Skin dryness is reduced and the skin is visibly restored to a healthy-looking condition and feels smooth and supple.

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Wednesday, 18 September 2013, 14:10–14:30
Title: Plan Cell Culture: Amplified Natural Efficacy
Speaker: Anne Hetier
Company: Sederma
The growth of green biotechnologies is made evident by the increasing number of ingredients based on plant stem cells. By exploring science behind plant cell culture, we will look at several examples of active ingredients designed for various personal care applications. Among these, IRB by Sederma developed a cutting-edge active ingredient proven to fade signs of ageing by a breakthrough approach.

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Wednesday, 18 September 2013, 14:50–15:10
Title: Formulating for Sulphate Free Shampoos
Speaker: David Popplewell
Company: Ashland Specialty Ingredients
Improving the performance of sulfate free shampoo/body wash and other surfactant cleansing products is one of the challenges facing the Personal Care formulators. They are now charged with developing products with equivalent performance and sensory characteristics to sulphate based products. The sensory aspects include foaming and consistency (difficult to thicken with traditional thickeners) and in performance some conditioning deficiencies due to coacervate formation are apparent.
To meet today’s challenges, Ashland Specialty Ingredients, through its global applications’ team, has explored its extensive range of Conditioneze and N-Hance conditioning polymers in combination with its range of cellulosic rheology modifiers, Benecel, Klucel, and Natrosol. As a result better coacervate formations as well as improved foam properties were observed for a series of sulfate free surfactant mixtures in combination with Ashland rheology modifiers and conditioning polymers. The presentation will give recommendations how to improve sulfate free shampoo formulations.

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Wednesday, 18 September 2013, 15:10–15:30
Title: Fighting Back Aging Signs
Speaker: Raul Vallecillo
Company: Lipotec
Getting older comes with undesired effects on skin induced by environmental elements (like gravity force) and internal factors as well. Skin needs to be firm and elastic to counteract them, but also amend DNA errors due to extrinsic and intrinsic aging. As genetic integrity is directly linked to cellular longevity and adequate functioning, the mechanisms to remove genetic errors are crucial to maintain a healthy and young look.
A key agent that keeps DNA integrity is the Forkhead box (FOX) transcriptional factor family. Included in the FOXO subclass, FOXO3a regulates the expression of genes involved in cellular protection and longevity, being able to induce programmed cellular death (when severe DNA damage), cell-cycle arrest (to repair smaller errors) and an increase of DNA-repairing genes. Thus, the decrease of FOXO3a activity would result in damage accumulation, which actually happens when aging. JUVEFOXO™ imitates FOXO3a activity by raising the activity of its responsive elements, DNA-repair pathways, environmental protection and rejuvenation, and by decreasing cellular senescence.
Additionally, UPLEVITY™ is designed to counteract skin and sagginess, by enhancing the natural elements that help to maintain collagen levels and elastin fibres correctly assembled, and focal adhesions that facilitate the union between cells and the matrix.

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Wednesday, 18 September 2013, 15:30–15:50
Title: PUROLAN® Glucan – A New Natural Anti-aging Active
Speaker: Dr. Matthias Kunze
Company: Lanxess Distribution
Beta-glucan is a natural active derived from sources such as oats, mushrooms and yeast. Due to its proven moisturising and anti-wrinkling effects, it is used in numerous cosmetic applications. Yeast-derived beta-glucan provides additional benefits for the immune system by activating macrophages and Langerhans cells. This makes it an ideal ingredient for sunscreen applications, reducing damage caused by UV radiation. However, the branched structure of natural yeast-glucan results in poor solubility. Chemical modification can improve solubility but may also change the structure of the molecule, jeopardizing its properties and its status as a natural ingredient. By applying an innovative process, unmodified yeast-glucan is now available as a 5 % aqueous dispersion. As a result, PUROLAN® Glucan can be easily incorporated into formulations whilst retaining the superior properties of yeast-glucan. This performance has been proven in an extensive study. Since no chemical process is required, this is a 100% natural ingredient with NATRUE certification.

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Wednesday, 18 September 2013, 15:50–16:10
Title: Needle-free Cosmetics – Redefining the Theory of Skin Youth
Speaker: Dr. Nicola Garuccio – Global Sales Manager
Company: Induchem AG
The cosmetic alternative to injection filler of collagen and HA.
It is a well known fact that the extracellular matrix is made of key polymers that give skin its unique suppleness, firmness and elasticity. Among these polymers is hyaluronic acid, which is sugar based, and plays the role of the major water reservoir. Recent biotechnology investigations enabled the creation of a third generation hyaluronic acid (called NovHyal® Biotech-G: a molecule inspired from aesthetic medicine) that can reactivate the synthesis of hyaluronic acid deep within the skin, almost as a “needle free” injection of HA.
The other extra cellular matrix polymers are mainly collagens (mainly collagen I and III), which help the skin maintain its structure and elastin, which provides skin its viscoelasticity. When compared to hyaluronic acid, collagens and elastin are quite sophisticated 3D proteins, which are degraded in our body by enzymes (collagenases and peptidases) upon ageing.
Little fundamental research has been conducted on the metabolic flow of energy that is associated with the loss of collagen and elastin in skin.
Induchem’s biotechnology engineers have consequently used a leading edge green chemistry process (biocatalysis) to develop a new derivative of glucose called MG6P. Preactivated and unable to induce glycation reactions, this cellular source of energy has then been combined with human essential amino acids and copper to create Neodermyl®, an active ingredient that induces a fast and significant production of collagen, and elastin, with a clear rearrangement of these polymers in the extracellular matrix, therefore redensifying the skin over time.

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Wednesday, 18 September 2013, 16:10–16:30
Title: Natural Ingredients for Innovation
Speaker: Jennifer Cargill
Company: ALFA Chemicals Ltd
Alfa Chemicals’ range of multi-functioning, 100% natural, Ecocert approved ingredients will revolutionise the way you formulate. Based on sugar, our ingredients will provide exceptional moisturisation and incredible softness to the skin.
Find out how our Sucragel and Sucrabase range will provide you with unique textures and countless new formulations due to their ability to gel any oily ingredient into stable micro-emulsions which instantly emulsify on contact with water. Sucramulse, our new Ecocert approved all in one emulsifier, and Sucrathix, our new Ecocert approved water thickener, will allow you to formulate natural emulsions which are non-whitening, non-tacky and quickly absorbed leaving the skin with a luxurious velvety feel.

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Wednesday, 18 September 2013, 16:30–16:50
Title: “How do You Feel ?” Textures for Your Formulations
Speaker: Claire Summers
Company: Azelis
A brief look at the textures to bring intrigue to all your formulations. A discussion on how different textures are achievable in a simple and effective way by using the right raw materials.

Tüm formüllerinize çekicilik kazandıracak formül yapılarına kısa bir bakış. Doğru hammaddeleri kullanarak basit ve etkin bir şekilde değişik formül yapıları oluşturmak üzerine bir konuşma.

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Thursday, 19 September 2013, 10:00–10:20
Title: Beyond Softness: 3D Concept for Fabric Softeners
Speaker: Oğuz Bayrak
Company: BASF Türk Kimya Sanayi ve Ticaret Ltd. Şti.
Softness is the defining benefit of Fabric Softeners. Besides the traditional property for this product category, new launches include additional benefits comprising innovative and long-lasting fragrances.
With BASF’s broad portfolio, it is possible for our customers to formulate fabric softeners matching the market needs. In Forum for Innovation we will present our new 3D concept based on three physical senses: Touch, Sight and Smell.
To enhance the touch sense we can offer solutions based on our biodegradable cationic surfactants (esterquats) in combination with special additives.
We have as well solutions based on cationic polymers and optical brighteners to improve the physical appearance of the final product. These ingredients can as well contribute to improve the final appearance of the washed fabrics.
For the smell sense we can offer our stabilizers product range that protect the fragrances and enhance their release. Our antibacterial ingredients permit to achieve hygiene and antibacterial claims.

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Thursday, 19 September 2013, 10:20–10:50
Title: Surfactant Systems for Optimized Surface Cleaning
Speaker: Jean-Marc Dumas (AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry)
Company: Biesterfeld Özel Kimyasallar
Many different chemicals find use in the degreasing processes. In recent years, due to cost pressures on manufacturers, there has been a trend to use optimized surfactants to lower the total cost of manufacturing. AkzoNobel offers its customers that produce degreasers to use a single surfactant blend, and offer cost reductions by keeping lower stocks and using uniform quality raw materials.
This presentation will offer a selection method for choosing the most suitable surfactant systems based on parameters such as: presence or mechanical treatment, soil and substrate pairs, concentration, foam or no-foam systems, temperature and time. The examples will be for industrial soils, kitchen soils, vehicle cleaning, acidic-neutral and high-alkaling cleaning.
AkzoNobel offers new products like Berol LS which is a blend of special surfactants and colloidal silaca and Berol SurfBoost Ad 15 that is considered as an anaerobically biodegradable co-surfactant which boost the performance of non-ionics in addition to leading surfactants products such as Berol 226, LFG 61, DGR 81 and EZ-1.

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Thursday, 19 September 2013, 10:50–11:20
Title: Recent Developments in Household and Personal Care Products Market in the Middle East and Impact on Surfactant Consumption
Speaker: Farrokh B. Malihi
Company: Fargol Group
The market for household and personal care products in the Middle East is relatively large, competitive, and performance-price oriented. The importance of this market is demonstrated by strong business commitment of major multi-national companies and numerous local manufacturers. Recent economic growth, steady population growth, young and educated workforce, and rapid urbanization has resulted in a large and growing market for household and personal care products in the Middle East. Consumers in the Middle East, both urban and rural women, take pride in caring for the family health and hygiene, a clean home, and excellent washing results. Wide distribution of income in the region has resulted in significant differences in the development of detergent and personal care market, consumption profile, and consumer habits and practices.
Linear alkylbenzene sulfonate (LAS) is the most widely used surfactant in formulation of household cleaning products in the Middle East. Demand for LAS in the region is currently estimated at over 500,000 tons per year, which is produced by major petrochemical companies in the Middle East. The dominance of LAS is particularly apparent in laundry detergents, dishwashing liquids, household cleaners, and industrial-institutional products. Favorable cost-performance ratio, ample and stable local supply, and ease of use in spray dried powder detergents are major reasons for LAS consumption as the primary choice for a workhorse surfactant in detergents and cleaning products. In addition to LAS, nonionic surfactants (alcohol ethoxylates, and nonylphenol ethoxylates), alkyl ether sulfates, alkanolamides, certain amphoterics, and soap are produced and used as a primary or co-surfactant in household and personal care products.

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Thursday, 19 September 2013, 11:20–11:40
Title: The Perfect Viscosity for Your Dishwashing Liquids
Speaker: Dr. Christine Müller
Company: Clariant
Aligned with global green trends such as water saving and reduced pack size consumers are increasingly demanding concentrated products for household. For their formulation and application, the use of rheology modifiers like flammable ethanol is mandatory. TexCare® SRN 170 offers a high-performance and environmentally friendly alternative as a low VOC and solvent-free solution for controlling the viscosity of concentrated dishwashing liquids.
A comparison of TexCare® SRN 170 with ethanol and monopropylene glycol which are used as standard solvents to depress viscosity in dishwashing liquids, indicates TexCare to be at least four times more effective in use. As a consequence, not only the cost-performance ratio is improved but also secondary effects such as improved formulation stability, soil dispersion and pleasant skin feel can be claimed.

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Thursday, 19 September 2013, 11:40–12:00
Title: Italmatch Dequest’s Co-builder Composition to Maximize Liquid Laundry Detergent Performance Profile
Speaker: Geneviève Bonnechère
Company: Italmatch Belgium
Nowadays, detergent manufacturers need to deliver formulations that will comply with more sustainable approach like lower water and lower energy consumption. To tackle these challenges, detergent market is moving very fast towards concentrated liquid detergents while washing habits are evolving from high to low temperature wash. On the other hand, detergent formulators are seeking for primary and secondary cleaning performance improvement for their regular liquid detergents as well.
These new trends are requiring more effective and highly soluble ingredients while the absence of bleach needs to be compensated by ingredients that will help in the removal of oxidisable stains (red wine, tea, grass, etc) as well as delivering optimum level of whiteness over the cumulative washes.
Laboratory results with technical data will be presented during the lecture. The different Dequest ingredients are highly effective which allow to keep cost and inclusion level as low as possible Italmatch Dequest with its versatile ingredients is a key partner in your product development from concept to commercialization

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Thursday, 19 September 2013, 12:00–12:20
Title: Concept for Color Protection & Care
Speaker: Mr. Patrick Winter – Innovation Management, Cosmetic Ingredients
Company: Evonik Industries AG
Color wash fastness and UV-protection of hair with Silicone Quaternium-22 and Polysilicone-19

With our new Silicone Quaternium-22 microemulsion (trade name: ABIL® ME 45), we offer a very easy to use, multi-benefit silicone conditioning agent. The product is PEG- and preservative-free and gives excellent and intensive conditioning, which leads to extraordinary manageability and smoothness of hair, reviving even highly damaged hair. Furthermore, the Silicone Quaternium-22 microemulsion also protects hair from further impairment based on its remarkable heat protection properties and outstanding color wash fastness for dyed hair.
In fact, color protection, which includes both color wash fastness and UV-protection, is a much sought-after claim for premium hair conditioners. It is well known that our Polysilicone-19 (trade name: ABIL® UV Quat 50) which contains UV-absorbing methoxycinnamic acid groups along its cationic siloxane copolymer structure provides remarkable protection of dyed hair against UV-fading and damaging by sunlight. In this study, we will now demonstrate evidence for the excellent color wash fastness protection of the Silicone Quaternium-22 microemulsion as a key additional benefit.
As a result, the combination of Silicone Quaternium-22 microemulsion and Polysilicone-19 gives rise to both comprehensive color protection and premium hair conditioning, affording hair care formulations with both visible and tangible benefits for consumers.

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Thursday, 19 September 2013, 12:20–12:40
Title: Natural Alternatives to Microplastics
Speaker: Charles-Henri Morice
Company: LESSONIA
Abstract not yet available.

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Thursday, 19 September 2013, 12:40–13:00
Title: High Performance Sulfate-free Surfactant Concentrates for Personal Cleansing Formaultions
Speaker: Peter Clark
Company: Innospec Limited
This presentation will cover Innospec's increasingly popular Iselux technology which is a sulfate-free surfactant ideal for formulating mild and personal cleansing formulations with exceptional performance, elegance and appeal. The sulfate-free theme for personal care cleansing products continues to grow on a global basis with ever more sulfate-free shampoos and body washes being launched. To give formulators compelling choices for this trend, Innospec has three impressive and eas-to-use sulfate-free surfactant concentrates based on Iselux. One is an optimised/balanced sulfate-free surfactant concentrate that easily dilutes to produce elegant, high performing shampoos or skin cleanser; another a is structured surfactant liquid concentrate that can hold 10% or more of a desirable oil or other incompatible additive and deliver outstanding lather and skin moisturisation, and the third is an ultra-mild concentrate suitable for baby care products with no eye sting or irritation.

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Thursday, 19 September 2013, 13:00–13:20
Title: Trimethylsiloxysilicates: Protective Silicone Barrier Films
Speaker: Marc Ladreyt
Company: BRB International BV
At HPCI Middle East & Eurasia, BRB Silicones launches a product range that has an outstretched variety of applications for your Personal Care formulations: trimethylsiloxysilicates.
It creates a protective film upon drying. This excellent wash-off and rub-off resistant water-proofing additive provides a long-lasting effect and a unique smooth non-tacky feel. It will also help holding pigments in place in your formulation.
Where does it originate? BRB’s trimethylsiloxysilicates film forming primarily originates through intermolecular interaction; it will form a lattice structure upon drying and secondary through condensation of OH groups. Because of the relatively low molecular weight and presence of M groups, the product is soluble in silicone solvents and can form a film upon evaporation of the solvent. The non-volatile silicone oil will act as a plasticizer to reduce film hardness/brittleness.
BRB is able to provide trimethylsiloxysilicates in different forms and we are always willing to delve deeper into the development of a custom-made variant. BRB Silicones will present two examples of in-house tested guide formulations: wash-off resistant solare protecting cream and CC cream.

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Thursday, 19 September 2013, 13:20–13:40
Title: Superior Gold Effects by Superior Technology
Speaker: Norbert Rick
Company: Merck
Brilliance and sparkling effects are surely the most beautiful and attractive effects for cosmetic products. The use of pearlescent pigments to create such effects is well known, but new innovative technologies radically outperform established effects in terms of color depths and sparkling character. One of the latest developments is Ronastar® Golden Jewel – a pearlescent pigment with a real “gold in the sun” effect and a tremendous sparkle. The presentation displays the ground breaking technology behind the symbiosis of highly transparent glass flakes and a multilayer coating. Color measurement results prove the uniqueness of the pearl pigment while application guidelines demonstrate how to develop new eye catching cosmetic applications.




last update: 11 September 2013