Technical Seminars - Abstracts


The Challenges for Personal Care Preservatives under the new European Regulations

Paul Wood
Customer Application Specialist

Dow Microbial Control


Today's European regulatory environment presents many challenges for the use of preservatives in personal care and cosmetic products. These preservatives must undergo a stringent evaluation within the scope of the current EU Cosmetics Directive, which in turn is in the process of being substituted by the European Cosmetics Regulation, adding additional complexity for the cosmetics manufacturer in his choice of products for preservation.

In addition, the fact that Personal Care preservatives must also be supported for the use in cosmetics within the scope of the European Union's REACH Regulation, and indirectly the Biocidal Products Directive is also having an influence on the introduction of Personal Care preservatives on the market.

In this presentation, we will review the strategic challenges for Personal Care Preservatives in today's regulatory environment in Europe and examine its consequent implications for Turkey.



Water Soluble Polymers for Foam Boost and Enhanced Sensory Appeal in Hand Dish Formulations

Anne Oberlin
R&D Technical Service Scientist

Dow France SAS


This presentation shows an example of how innovation permeates from one application, namely personal care into another such as Hand Dish Care, thus bringing interesting benefits to the consumers and label claims for brand owners.

The presentation investigates the interactions of various cellulosic and other water soluble polymer chemistries in a Hand Dish formulation.

METHOCELTM and POLYOX TM water soluble polymers are multi-functional materials. METHOCELTM is a modified cellulose, derived in part from renewable resources, and therefore contributes to progressive sustainability improvements. Currently, these materials are not typically used in dish care applications.

Design of polymeric materials, e.g. modifying the hydrophobicity, molecular weight and charge substitution on a polymer backbone can produce a wide variety of different structures which have novel or unique properties to deliver enhanced skin sensorial, foam design and surface modification benefits, which are highly desirable in hand dishwashing liquids. Investigation into these effects and the structural/performance relationship offers many new benefits.



Carboxymehyl inulin:
a vegetable based ingredient for liquid laundry detergents


Geneviève Bonnechère

Thermphos


Liquid laundry detergent is the up-and-coming segment in Middle East. Future move to compact product, low temperature wash and high efficiency washing machine has raised formulation challenges requiring innovative ingredients.

Recent works on carboxymethyl inulin (CMI) have demonstrated that its inclusion in liquid laundry detergents provides a significant boost in stain removal. CMI based formulations have been compared to commercial products from various market segments. Results indicate that varying the inclusion level of CMI allows matching the performance of these products from low tier up to premium brands. High inclusion level even results in performance above any tested detergents. These good performances are driven by the ability of CMI to bind hardness ions, defloculate stains and disperse soil and its good behaviour towards enzymes.

The vegetal origin of CMI, its exceptionally low toxicity and non persistent character ensure that it has a low impact on the environment. Therefore, CMI is an ingredient of choice to reduce oil dependency and meet consumer aspirations for sustainable detergents without compromising on cleaning performance.



Development of New Emollients as Natural, Sustainable and High Performance Solutions

Gabriele Polak
Technical Service Manager
Leave on


EVONIK Goldschmidt GmbH


Emollients are one of the most commonly used ingredients in cosmetic formulations. For the selection of emollients for a specific application basic physicochemical properties and sustainability are important. Physicochemical properties of emollients influence the colloidal and sensorial properties of cosmetic formulations. This talk will give a brief overview over methods to determine physical and sensorial properties and how these results are integrated in the selection. In addition new emollients with a 100% vegetable origin, produced by a sustainable enzymatic process will be presented. The presentation will also highlight a polar emollient, especially suitable for sun care formulations.



A new film forming polyurethane polymer for Hair Styling formulations

Dr. Sophie Viala
Head Business Development
Cosmetic Raw Materials


Bayer MaterialScience AG


This paper will present a new polyurethane film former and its use in various hair styling formulations. Key measurements like high humidity curl retention, cantilever 3-point bending or omega loop were performed to determine the attributes and efficacy of the new waterborne polyurethane polymer, and compared to currently used hair styling polymer film former.

The new polyurethane dispersion offers the perfect solution to hair styling formulations: an excellent high humidity curl retention, strong and durable hold and high flexibility. Furthermore, the new polyurethane dispersion is easy to incorporate into the formulation: no high energy input needed, suitable for a cold/cold production process, no neutralization required and high formulation versatility. Like all other Baycusan® C products, the new polyurethane dispersion is also free of co-solvents and preservatives, thus providing the cosmetics industry to develop preservative free and low VOC formulation.



Innovative Esters with excellent sensorial properties for color cosmetics, skin and hair care

Martina Lydia Heldermann
Sales & Marketing Manager Europe

Inolex GmbH


LexFeel® Fluide are an outstanding sensory experience. They are based on unique complex ester technology and have attributes similar to silicones. The range includes very light LexFeels® to reduce tack and provide spreading up to heavier LexFeels® for cushion and gloss. Additionally there is a natural grade available that also has an Ecocert.

Just to name some of the products from the LexFeel® family: LexFeel® Shine has an ultra high Refractive Index (RI), which imparts incandescent shine to lips. It augments effect-pigments and SPF, and is compatible with esters and oils.

LexFeel® 7 is an ultra dry, fast spreading emollient that ensures even coverage onto the skin and lips. It’s great for sensitive or oily skin products, foundations and transfer-resistant products.

Tests indicate that Lexfeel® 700, a complex polyester, is an oxidatively stable alternative to Castor Oil for color cosmetics. In addition, LexFeel® 700 is as efficient as castor oil in dispersing pigment. Its performance and ease of use make LexFeel® 700 the logical choice for formulating differentiated, innovative and luxurious color cosmetics.



Preserve more with less - use a synergist

Dr. Frederic Pilz
R&D Manager Personal Care

Clariant


In order to preserve your natural formulation you can add multiple natural preservatives. Or you can add a synergistic aid which is mild and gentle, absolutely safe as used and easy to handle. Such a synergistic aid was identified by Clariant and will be offered under the Velsan brand name. This liquid natural substance helps to boost the preservative within the formulation so that less preservative is needed and a safe, reliable preservation is achieved.



Eco-Responsible Care by Alban Muller

Alban Muller
Founder

Alban Muller International


With 30 years’ experience in the field of beauty, Alban Muller International has chosen to work in a new philosophy to develop its products: Eco-Responsibility. From the seed to the finished product, each development step is monitored, and we focus on limiting the impact on man and the environment.

Quality and Safety of the Supply

Origin of the Plants
- Plants which are cultivated or have guaranteed renewal thanks to monitored harvesting
- Plants cultivated close to our manufacturing site (reducing the carbon footprint)

Cultivation Techniques
- Reliable collaboration with partners working in line with Good Farming Practices
- Environment-friendly agronomy techniques to improve the quality of the plant

Post Harvest Plant Control
- Content in actives
- Control of contaminants

Monitoring our Impact on the Environment

- An ISO14001-certified manufacturing site
- Selecting renewable and biodegradable raw material
- Optimised, eco-clean manufacturing processes
- Sustainable waste-management
- Treating effluents through our Filtering Gardens

Eco-Responsible Partners

The Cosmetic Valley, the first worldwide perfume-cosmetic network. As active members of the competitivity Pole, we are committed to eco-responsible cosmetics.
www.cosmetic-valley.com

The Herboretum Association, preserving biodiversity and participating in the follow-up of its evolution by increasing the awareness of the public. www.herboretum.org



Bluestar Microemulsion Technology for Versatile Conditioner Formulations

Nalan Erkan Yavuzer
Sales Manager Personal Care

Azelis TR


Amodimethicone is – per definition - a family of amine functionalized high molecular weight silicone polymers. They are well known for their high-performance conditioning potential in addition of many other benefits, including:

• targeted conditioning to areas of particularly damaged
hair
• protection against thermal damage
• increase colour retention
• no build up
• impart gloss and shine

In contrast to pure Amodimethicone, Mirasil ADM-E is a microemulsion of amine functionalized polydimethyl-sioxane which is readily dispersable into aqueous formulations (e.g. for making transparent 2-in-1 shampoos). The internal oil phase volume contains of just about 40% Amodimethicone stabilized by Trideceth-6. Just ADM-E can be used as an emulsion base in order to incorporate additional amounts of lipophilic ingredients besides the Amodimethicone. Additional lipophilic ingredients could be: hair care/scalp actives, oil components…. and others. The mechanism of oil droplet stabilisation will be described. It will be shown that based on ADM-E a versatile family of different conditioners can be formulated.



Customized sensitive skin care concepts

Zeynep Gamze Şen
Marketing Manager

Cognis Care Chemicals


The demand for mild and gentle personal care formulations has steadily increased over the last decade.Today, consumers expect skincare and cleansing products to be both high-performing and kind to the skin. The new “Sensitive Skin” concept offers readily formulated personal care solutions for various products, ranging from baby shampoos and aftershave balm to skin care lotions. All of these formulations have been tested and proven as suitable for use on sensitive skin. As such, this concept helps customers to meet the demands of modern consumers with sensitive skin – mildness and performance combined with efficiency and convenience.



Designing substantiated active ingredients to address the major unmet consumer needs within the hair care segment.

Valérie Basocak
Senior Product Manager

Cognis - Laboratoires Sérobiologiques


Highly sourced in the deep expertise in scalp and hair biology allied with unique capabilities in 2D, 3D visualisation, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS), now a part of BASF, constantly focuses on the identification and characterisation of novel biological targets/ pathways linked to key corrective actions such as hair growth modulation, scalp disorders and repair and strengthening of the hair fiber.

Plugged in the world trends and, LS has developed a new generation of substantiated active ingredients designed to address the major unmet consumer needs within the hair care segment. Among them are hair growth booster, scalp and hair environmental stress protector, a new generation of natural scalp purifier that also shows hair beautifying properties. Besides those biological actions, LS also offers a large choice of rare botanical oils able to visibly rejuvenate hair fiber, through deep nourishing actions.

This presentation shows along the way what are the major actual and future trends on the market of scalp and hair treatments, together with the latest LS innovations that will allow you to meet the trends and leverage your products with visible and clinically proven efficacies.



The Benefits of Silicones for Repairing Heat Damaged Hair Fibers

Sabrina Marchioretto
Suzanne Van Doorn
Life Sciences, Technical Service

Dow Corning


Although conditioning is critical for healthy-looking hair, steps during hair styling such as frictional forces applied during brushing and actives contained in perming, straightening, bleaching and coloring products contribute to hair damage. Additionally, to perfect their hair styles, high-temperature heat-styling devices such as blow-dryers and straightening, curling and crimping irons are used. Daily repeated usages of these devices considerably damage hair fibers, resulting in hair frizz, dryness, breakage, split ends, lack of body or static unmanageability.

High molecular weight Dimethicones are used since many years to smooth the cuticles and provide the perception of split end repair.

This study explores the benefits of silicones to repair heat damage hair.

New test protocols were used to heat damage bleached hair and specialty silicones were evaluated to demonstrate:

1. Damaging effect of heat on hair fibers
2. Repairing properties of derivative
polydimetylsiloxane based polymers:
• glide and smoothness restoration, decrease
of tangles and raspy feel of dry hair
• reduction of visual signs of damaged hair
• improvement of hair resistance to breakage,
reducing further risk of damage



Natragem E145 – the solution to green emulsification

Jonathan Stott
Business Development Specialist, MEAP

Croda


Croda Europe is delighted to announce the launch of a new natural emulsifier NatraGem E145.

NatraGem E145 meets the need for a natural, high HLB o/w emulsifier and is ideal for formulations with a green positioning!

Approved natural by Ecocert, NatraGem E145 is also suitable for use in hot and cold processed emulsions. It is compatible with both low and high polarity oils and shows excellent electrolyte, pH and temperature tolerance.




New innovations in the production of cosmetics: Hot/cold saves time and energy

Christof Limberger
Sales Project Manager

Ekato Systems GmbH


The hot/hot process is still used for manufacturing numerous cosmetic products. To manufacture products which are generally emulsion-based (creams, lotions, masks or on gels too etc.) water and oil-based phases are heated up to high temperatures. Substantial amounts of energy can be derived from these high temperatures, shown by very long cooling times.

Both product quantity and heat capacity are compulsory parameters. Energy savings therefore can be made only if the temperature of the product is kept as low as possible during manufacturing. This can be achieved by adding one of these phases at a much lower temperature (“hot/cold“ or “cold/hot“)!

By differentiating between hot and cold phases the product temperature can therefore be reduced to a much lower level compared to the hot/hot process as soon as the two phases are brought together. The lower mixing temperature results in a significantly smaller amount of energy being given off, which means a much shorter cooling and, in turn, process time.

This lecture offers a detailed description of the advantages of such a manufacturing process.




Sensiva® PA 20 – the new antimicrobial stabilizing combination for “preservative-free” Skin Care Products

Andrea Kröhnke
Area Manager Personal Care & Household

Schülke & Mayr GmbH


With sensiva® PA 20 we extend schülke´s range of multifunctional cosmetic additives...

Sensiva® PA 20 is a synergistic blend of ethylhexylglycerin and phenethyl alcohol. Its unique properties make it suitable for the use in a wide range of cosmetic applications like leave-on formulations, deodorants and wet-wipes. It combines the excellent skin care and deodorising properties of ethylhexylglycerin with the antimicrobial properties of phenethyl alcohol. Phenethyl alcohol is a nature-identical fragrance ingredient with a mild flowery rose-like scent which can mask possible unpleasant odours of other ingredients. Ethylhexylglycerin as a booster enhances the antimicrobial properties of phenethyl alcohol. sensiva® PA 20 can be used as an antimicrobial stabiliser for preservative-free cosmetics.




Targeting Different Mechanisms for an Anti-aging Treatment

Domenico Palella
Export Manager

Lipotec S.A.


Wrinkles are the most outstanding feature of the unavoidable aging process. Repeated muscular contractions may originate permanent lines, known as expression wrinkles, which can be significantly minimised by modulating muscle contraction.

Muscle contraction involves a synapse, which develops between a motor neuron and a muscle fibre. When an electric impulse travels along the pre-synaptic cell, causes the release of the neurotransmitter acetylcholine (ACh) into the synapse, which diffuses to the post-synaptic dendrites and activates the acetylcholine receptors (AChRs). An action potential is created and muscle contraction takes place. There are two main strategies to modulate muscle contraction relaxing the muscle and helping to avoid the appearance of expression wrinkles: Pre-Synaptic and Post-Synaptic.

The pre-synaptic pathway involves the restrainment of the ACh release from the motor neuron whilst post-synaptic mechanism implies ACh –AChR binding limitation. A mimic of the N-terminal end of SNAP-25 competing with it for a position in the SNARE (SNAP REceptor) complex could modulate the formation of the complex, which is essential for the ACh release at the synapse. On the other hand, influencing on the modulation of AChR clusters formation in the post-synaptic membrane lessens muscle contraction. In both cases, muscle contraction is attenuated preventing wrinkle formation.




Evaluation methods of cleaning performance of cleaners on hard surfaces

Zena Malocho
Project Leader Detergents

SGS Institut Fresenius


Preparations of test soils

For determining the cleaning performance hard surfaces are soiled and aged under defined conditions. The selection of the test soil, weather greasy, mineral etc. depends on the type of cleaner undergoing the test.

The evaluation of product performance can either be done visually, gravimetrically or digital, for instance by means of CIE LAB measurements. Another possibility of evaluation is by means of digital image analysis.

Digital Image Analysis

A possible solution is the combination of the digital image processing with the wiping testing set. In addition a digital camera is installed above the wiping test set. The camera takes a picture during the wiping procedure after each stroke. With the help of the software the evaluation of the obtained data and picture is done.

After each wipe a contrast measurement and an intensity measurement of the remaining soil is determined. Hence the soil residues in percentage after each stroke can be determined for each track. With the obtained curve progression, the soil removal behaviour of the cleaner can be determined.

Experienced difficulties, advantage and requirements will be mentioned.




Can you protect yourself against the tiger mosquito?

Pelin Eren
Product Specialist Cosmetics

Merck


The tiger mosquito (Aedes albopictus) is the world's most invasive mosquito. This mosquito is native to Southeast Asia and during last twenty years it has spread to Europe, the Americas, the Caribbean, Africa and the Middle East by international good transport and traveling. The tiger mosquito is less sensitive against climatic conditions than other species and the eggs can remain dry for months but still remain viable. The Asian tiger mosquito is an day-active aggressive human biter und is correlated to the hazards such as dengue, Chinkungunya and West Nile Virus.

Control measures against the tiger mosquito were established by many health authorities all over the world. But if control measures against the tiger mosquitos fail, insect repellents will provide personal protection against this disease vector.

Repellents are the substance or formulation that causes insects to make oriented movements away from its source. IR3535® is a personal, topical and synthetic repellent. It is marketed since more than 30 years in Europe. It represents a broad range of efficacy and field studies showing that IR3535® protects against the aggressive Tiger Mosquitoe up to 8 hours. IR3535 shows an excellent toxicological profile (classification as Bio-Pesticide in USA), is biodegradable and structural similarity with natural occurring ß-alanine.

Consequently, IR3535® provides excellent protection against the tiger mosquito and a wide range of insects. IR3535® combines the reliability of the natural repellent prototype ß alanine and the long term efficacy of the synthetically optimized repellent molecule. For all this reasons it is the preferred repellent active especially for children products.




Keratrix™
Restorative natural active for damaged and weakened hair


Pedro Usandizaga
International Sales Manager

Provital Group


Hair is the most powerful, exclusive and versatile accessory. There are many different options to change its shape and colour, but many of these treatments damage and weaken the fiber.

Keratrix™ is a multifunctional natural active obtained through selective hydrolysis from carob tree seeds. These oligopeptides are injected in a Matrix Plus, a natural three-dimensional network of amilopectyn that gets fixed on the hair fiber and delivers the active sequentially for a long-lasting effect.This exclusive technology of Provital allows a sustained release of the active.

Ex vivo tests performed on damaged tresses demonstrate that Keratrix™ has a protecting, strengthening and repairing effect on the hair, thus is specially recommended for weakened and damaged hair.

SEM microscopy shows a softened and protected cuticle, and tests on breaking force and permeability demonstrate that hair is stronger and repaired.

It can be easily included in any kind of hair product formulation.




Fixate™ Freestyle polymer:
Advanced Styling Performance and Versatility for Hair Gel Formulations


Florence Pecquerie
Technical Service and Application Scientist – Personal Care

Lubrizol Advanced Materials


Patent pending Fixate™ Freestyle polymer provides breakthrough performance in hair styling applications without compromising gel rheology or aesthetics. The polymer delivers high humidity resistance, tailored hold, and flake resistance, allowing the formulator to achieve powerful performance for today’s demanding hairstyle consumers.

When used in combination with Carbopol® rheology modifiers, this innovative, patentpending hair fixative polymer delivers excellent humidity resistance and allows hold strength to be tailored from light to ultra-high stiffness without a significant change in gel viscosity or flow characteristics. Hair gels formulated with Fixate™ Freestyle polymer exhibit short flow, excellent pickup, air bubble suspension, high clarity and smooth gel appearance. As a result, diverse packaging options can be utilized for the finished styling product, ranging from clear jars to tubes to pump spray bottles.




Green Powerful Cleaning with Polymer Boost

Author:
Dr. Johan Ekeroth
Head of R&D EMEA,
Fabric and cleaning applications


Presenter:
Francesco Taurisano
Business Development Manager Middle East, Fabric and cleaning applications

AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry AB


Increased efforts are put into optimizing the effect of cleaners in order to minimize the use of chemicals. By selecting the right combination of surfactants/cosurfactants and chelators, and at the same time use additional chemistry to boost the system, the chemical amount needed and thus impact to the environment can be minimized.

A powerful combination of non-ionic surfactants, cationic cosurfactants and chelating agents, with the help of designed polymers is presented.

This combination results in extremely effective, highly dilutable, cleaning aimed at minimizing the use of chemicals needed.