| APG® surfactants for the Asian consumers’ “Green” needs |
| Due to the increasing consumer awareness on environmental issues but also on the impact that products have on their personal well-being, public health and society, the need for green products in the home and personal care market is growing fast in Asia Pacific. This “green” trend is being mainly driven by the use of eco-friendly ingredients from renewable resources and the development of concentrated formulations. APG® surfactants are manufactured from natural, renewable resources, such as vegetable oils and starch. Since first produced by Cognis (as a part of the Henkel group) in industrial scale in 1989, APG® (alkyl polyglucoside) surfactants have been widely accepted by home and personal care formulators looking for mild and eco-friendly surfactants with good foaming and cleaning performance. In line with the increasing market needs on “green” solutions in Asia Pacific, APG® was applied to various types of formulations like ultra-concentrated liquid laundry detergents, baby milk bottle cleaners, bar soap, and soap-based facial/body wash, etc. On top of its intrinsic value as a natural mild surfactant, APG® provides benefits in foaming, cleaning, solubility and mildness, among others, for these applications. To prove this, test results together with guideline formulations are introduced. In addition, recent combing test results for Asian hair, which imply the additional benefit of APG® for silicone-free shampoo, are also provided. |
| Natural Oils - wide perspective in Cosmetic and Personal care applications |
| Vegetable Oils comes from Nature and helps us in cosmetics formulations because they fit accurately with triple function: first, they are emollient, second, at the same time they provide active ingredients, mainly antioxidants and vitamins, and third, they act as ideal carriers for others active ingredients in cosmetic formulation, to reach deeply our skin. Occlusive, skin penetration, spreading and lubricity, all these four attributes included into emollient concept, are inherent in Vegetable Oils. They may be incorporate into cosmetic formulations as a lipophylic component in the emollient package of ingredients. Tocopherols, tocotrienols, triterpenes, flavonoides, phytosterols, phenolic compounds, etc. are active ingredients included in vegetable oils. |
| Antimicrobial Performance – the Soft Boosting Concept |
| The ongoing discussions about the safety of cosmetic preservatives have limited the number of accepted actives. As a result, formulators are looking for new and innovative ways to keep their cosmetic products microbiologically stable without the use of traditional preservative systems. Soft preservation can be achieved by the use of multifunctional additives / preservative boosters. Our products, sold under the name sensiva®, have been proven to boost the antimicrobial efficacy of traditional preservative systems thus helping to reduce the load of preservatives in cosmetic formulations. Even the improved antimicrobial activity of alcohols or glycols by sensiva® products can allow stabilizing the formulation without any further preservatives to a preservative free system. Some cosmetic ingredients can negatively influence sensory attributes e.g. tackiness, greasiness, absorption. A sensory assessment test with the multifunctional skin care additive sensiva® SC 50 overcomes some of these well-known disadvantages, while on the other hand meeting many other demands of cosmetic formulations. |
| Floor Care in the 21st Century |
| Floor Care films are designed to maintain the practical value and aesthetics of floors. However, cleaning alone accomplishes a mere necessary removal of soils. This learns us that only application of a care film ensures the protection from mechanical exposure. Care products as well as working methods ought to be selected according the floor type, in order to maintain the desired appearance, slip resistance and resistance against the mechanical walking impact. Film formation during drying is one the most important parts of the whole maintenance procedure, and we will go into detail upon this process and the role of all other ingredients in the floor polish end product. The care film also protects the floor from resoiling and significantly reduces general cleaning time. The various care methods in combination with the applied care products form a finishing film on the floor with different characteristics and properties. The especially durable film of such is due to their very dense surface that can be densified even further by buffing the film with a high speed machine. Such “coating” reduces maintenance time and contributes to improved room hygiene due to a considerable reduction of germs during wet cleaning, in comparison to uncoated floors. INTERPOLYMER products have proven to be the right choice for the requested end product, and partly patented technologies and the technical service to our customers makes INTERPOLYMER to be the right partner for the future. |
| Natural feel and superior Performance trough polymer innovation in Hair Care |
| Hair care is like Haute Couture driven by strong versatile trends in which consumers are looking for an effortless look combining super hair quality features such as texture, manageability and shine. With no compromise on elegance, hair care manufacturers are put under constraints choosing the right styling and conditioning ingredients to develop products meeting consumers’ high expectations. DSM has more than 50 years’ experience and success in material science polymer technology. Applying this technology in the hair care industry brings a high performance range of unique and innovative polymers helping manufacturers to tackle their challenges. DSM has developed a new pure solid acrylic bead polymer offering excellent compatibility with all propellants. It combines extra strong hold with a natural feel which is free from stickiness. Moreover, TILAMAR® Fix A1000 (acrylates copolymer) has a strong high humidity curl retention performance. Besides styling DSM also launched innovation in conditioning with cherished advantages for both consumers and manufacturers: high efficiency and compatibility in formulations, no build-up, ease of combing and washing, superior feel of wet and dry hair. Consumer need and trend based test formulations has been developed to demonstrate the excellent performance. All polymers have been tested against representative benchmarks This lecture will focus on the above items and will give brief experimental support on test methods and results. |
| Stabylen 30 - Effective polymer for Skin Care Application |
| Stabylen 30 is 3V SIGMA polymeric emulsifier able to be effective at very low concentration and with very low irritating potential. Thanks to the presence of Stabylen 30 the need of traditional hydrophilic emulsifiers can strongly be reduced obtaining emulsions both, in cold and hot process, with good stability, good sensoriality. Its rheological behaviour provides an easy spreading, fast absorbtion and soft afterfeel. Stabylen 30 is a strategic, cost effective ingredient with which formulate oil in water skin care and sun care emulsions with very nice sensoriality. |
| Personal Care – A New World Unlocked |
| From soaps and shampoos in the morning to the overnight repair face creams, from the sunscreen products in summers to moisturising lotions in winters; personal care products literally touch our daily lives. The personal care products we use are in some measure the signature of our lifestyles and standards of living. The personal care industry has taken rapid strides in the last few years, moving towards premium products incorporating specialty ingredients in their formulations. Favourable demographic factors and increasing beauty consciousness indicate high future demand for personal care products. Multinational players with international brands have a strong presence in the Indian formulation segment. Companies, like ours, no longer rely on the age-old methods of business, but have moved to innovations. Several beauty and personal care categories continued to gain momentum, driven by rising awareness of hygiene and personal grooming across urban and rural India.. Moreover, consumers became experimental and more were willing to spend more on products with specific benefits. This paper covers the path breaking concepts in Personal care industry, which has changed the way people perceive this segment today and what do all these trends mean for the personal care industry, for India, in particular? |
| Scientific concepts behind in vivo testing of cosmetic products efficacy |
| Advertising claims are covered by national laws in many countries in order to protect consumer and to ensure a fair competition between cosmetic manufacturers, these laws being enforced by regulatory authorities. Substantiating claims (compilation of information that proves the claim to be true) related to the efficacy and safety of cosmetics is therefore necessary. Data from tests should withstand the reviewing by independent experts in case of challenge. This presentation will address several issues such as the choice of the model, the key points of study design and the scientific concepts behind the realization of cosmetics tests. The objective of the presentation is to the knowledge necessary to fully understand cosmetic studies and to be able to evaluate their qualities. |
| Blue: A Practical Pathway to Green |
| There is an increasing acceptance that the environmental impact of major economies and industrialized nations cannot be left unabated for the sake of future generations. Businesses are under increasing pressure to implement manufacturing solutions that have minimal impact to the environment. Thus, energy-use reduction is now an important part of sustainability strategies of major corporations. Through cold process manufacturing, corporations can achieve tighter energy standards and reduce energy consumption as they seek to improve the greenness of their processes and achieve their sustainability goals. This paper will show that cold process manufacturing can generate energy savings of approximately 80%. This paper will also show that formulating via cold process is straightforward and these formulations can meet or even exceed the quality and consumer appeal of traditional hot processed products. Environmentally conscious actions no longer need to be seen as challenges to a company’s financial well-being. Adopting commercially-viable cold process technologies (which is referred to as Blue Technology at Croda) can lead to improved profitability and increased competitive advantage. |
| Effect pigments and their uses in cosmetic and personal care applications |
| This presentation is focused on the use of effect pigments such as pearlescent and metallic pigments in colour cosmetic and personal care applications such as shampoos, body lotions, toothpastes, etc. Also covered will be different substrates such as natural mica, borosilicate and synthetic mica along with aluminium, copper and bronze based pigments, their applications and basic regulatory information pertaining to their use. Formulation guidelines will also be provided to maximise the effects achieved in the finished formulations. Pearlescent and metallic effect pigments, when combined, can provide the formulator a much expanded colour pallet and yield spectacular results in the tradition colour cosmetic applications such as lip, eye and face products. Metallic pigments used in concealers and foundations provide superior coverage and skin tone evening properties that offer a natural look as compared to traditional ingredients utilised in such formulations. |
| HYDRACIRE™ S: The 3 in 1 excipient - Sensorial, Compatibilizing and Active |
| Of 100% plant origin, HYDRACIRE™ S is an active texture agent based on a hydrophilized complex of Jojoba, Mimosa and Sunflower waxes. HYDRACIRE™ S, through its unique molecular structure, combines the sensorial and functional advantages of liquid emollients, butters and waxes: • A soft, smooth butter, it stabilizes and improves the sensoriality of your natural formulations • A hydrophilized complex of hydrophobic waxes, it allows the realization of original formulations and textures • Truly active texture agent, it brings durable moisturization and comfort to the skin. Its moisturizing efficacy has been clinically demonstrated. HYDRACIRE™ S can be used for skincare O/W or W/O emulsions to improve sensorial properties and stability. It brings durable moisturization and comfort to the skin (proven in vivo). In suncare, HYDRACIRE™ S will improve the skin feel of formulations with high UV filter levels (chemical or mineral). Make-up innovation, HYDRACIRE™ S is particularly interesting for its capacity to introduce up to 15% water to traditionally anhydrous formulation. The differences with other texturizers come from the fact that HYDRACIRE™ S is a 3 in 1 ingredient: stabilizing, sensorial and active HYDRACIRE™ S is highly compatible for all the green and / or organic formulations. |
| Preserve more with less – increasing performance of preservatives with Velsan® SC |
| Since many years the preservative market is changing, following the “green” trend. Additionally, the claim “preservative-free” is more and more attractive as many consumers believe that a product which needs preservatives comprise a higher risk than unpreserved cosmetics. To address the market trends mentioned above Clariant has developed an Ecocert approved synergistic additive called Velsan® SC (INCI: Sorbitan Caprylate), which is based on renewable resources, has no odour, is not volatile, not listed as preservative and has an excellent toxicological profile. It has been found that the efficacy of Velsan® SC is comparable to other actives like Benzyl Alcohol or Phenoxyethanol and in addition it boosts their efficacy synergistically in order to lower the required amount of these aromatic alcohols in the finished formulation. Furthermore Velsan® SC has an excellent performance in combination with organic acids and its efficacy is not only comparable to aromatic alcohols but also to other novel antimicrobial actives like 1,2-Octanediol or Ethylhexylglycerin, being at the same time more economic. Apart from the above described antimicrobial efficacy of Sorbitan Caprylate, this active has another advantage in rinse-off formulations as a side-effect: it can help to build up viscosity. All in all, Velsan® SC is the ideal multifunctional performance booster for your cosmetic formulation. |
| Epidermosil: Novel anti-aging based on low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and silanol technology |
| Hyaluronan (HA) is an essential structural element of the connective tissue, specialy concentrated in the skin. In the dermis, HA participates to ECM architecture, maintenance of elastic properties, and regulation of water homeostasis. In this cutaneous compartment, HA interactions with specific cell surface receptors, CD44 lead to intracellular signaling that contribute to cell proliferation and differentiation, thereby participating to the barrier function. Several age-dependent alteration of HA have been reported, such as HA distribution, a quantity decrease in the upper layers of the epidermis and general thinning of the epidermis responsible for lower barrier function. A specific methodology for screening (3D in vitro and ex vivo systems, that enable to test topically applied ingredients) allowed us to design EPIDERMOSIL, a new anti-aging ingredient obtained by combining HA with Silanol technology. The Silanol’s target is mainly cytostimulation and dermic ECM restructuration, affected by aging process. In this case Silanol part significantly improves the natural low penetration capability of HA to penetrate through the stratum corneum. HA and Silanol synergistic combination results in a new anti-aging approach with moisturizing, cells renewal and GAG (HA included) neo-synthesis stimulation activities. |
| Skin Testing Devices in R&D |
| Measurement of skin parameters is very important for formulation, efficacy testing and claim support in the field of skin care. Courage+Khazaka electronic offers a broad range of instruments measuring a multitude of parameters. We present the Multiprobe Adaptor System for measurement of moisture, sebum, pH, melanin & erythema, viscoelasticity, temperature, TransEpidermal WaterLoss and colour of the skin. Our optical instruments Skin Visiometer®, Visioscan® and Visioline® allow calculation of a variety of parameters of the topography of the skin. Especially the determination of wrinkles and fine lines is important for the development of anti-ageing products. Furthermore we offer instruments for skin type determination at the point of sale for promotion of skin care products. |
| The importance of the integrity of the hydrolipidic film for skin sensorial properties |
| The hydrolipidic film consists of a lipid mixture secreted at the surface of the epidermis. The fatty acids contained in this lipid mixture bear negative charges that can combine with molecules of water through electrostatic interactions. Covering the stratum corneum, the hydrolipidc film confers the “wettability” feature to the skin and will affect the spreadability factor of topically applied products as well as skin sensorial attributes. Furthermore, by diffusing within the top layers of the stratum corneum, the lipids of the hydrolipidic film will positively influence the global skin barrier function thus preventing excessive water loss and favoring hydration/flexibility of the skin fibrillar meshwork. Ethylhexyl Olivate is a functional ingredient made of a fatty acid composition that mimics that found in the skin hydrolipidic film. The clinical efficacy of ethylhexyl olivate was tested in various protocols and was shown to improve global skin hydration capabilities and sensorial properties. This effect was demonstrated by clinically testing a formulation containing 3% Ethylhexyl Olivate. Measurements of corneometry, trans-epidermal water loss, cutometry and surface profilometry were performed. The formulation containing 3% Ethylhexyl Olivate significantly improved (p<0.0001 compared to baseline) skin hydration (12.2%), barrier function (16.7%) and visco-elastic properties (6.7%) 60 minutes upon application. Effects were maintained for up to 8 hours post-application. Skin surface profilometry that relates to the skin smoothness/sensorial attributes was also significantly improved (11.2%; p<0.0001). In another experiment, Ethylhexyl Olivate was compared to 10 different oil/emollients and ranked third for the viscosity enhancement and second for spreadability on skin. Thanks to its molecular composition, ethylhexyl olivate creates a subtle veil naturally integrating itself within the hydrolipidic film and significantly improving skin sensorial properties. |
| Ascorbyl Glucoside: A Stable Bioactive Vitamin C Derivative |
| The systemic physiological benefits of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) are well established; however, ascorbate’s role in skin care is becoming equally recognized. This has become especially true because of the desire of consumers to use products that contain “natural” substance, like vitamins. Unfortunately, most bioactive substances are not well suited for use in cosmetic and personal care products because of the number of ingredients with which they can react. This can result in deactivated of actives and spoiled formulations. Because of this, scientist have created substances that are stabile in formulation, but are activated when placed on the skin. One such product is Ascorbyl Glucoside (AG). As with natural vitamin C, AG has multiple biologic effects which companies may want to exploit. This presentation will include a brief review of the histology of the skin, and a technical discussion of the principal biologic effects of AG, which include a brightening/whitening effect on skin tone, stimulation of collagen synthesis for improvement of the texture of the skin, and antioxidant activity resulting in protection from UV damage. In vivo and in vitro assays from a variety of published and unpublished studies will illustrate both the cellular and cosmetic benefits of AG. |
last update: 17 November 2010